Outstanding guidance.

Throughout Myanmar I was fortunate in having superb local guides who were knowledgeable, friendly and spoke perfect English - a blessing given that we'd often have breakfast, lunch and dinner together! 

At each airport I was greeted by a new face, who I quickly got to know: in Yangon, friendly, open and candid Moe welcomed me (who'd learnt his English from the BBC World Service); quiet and thoughtful Sai showed me round Bagan; Mini Mimi, my very own Pocket Person, met me at Mandalay. What she lacked in height, she made up for in confidence and determined efficiency; finally, for Lake Inle and Kalaw, young and smart Twe Twe was my guide.

Our drivers were also great. (I don't take safe, considerate drivers for granted in Asia after an incident in Indonesia some years ago in which my local guide fell asleep at the wheel and nearly drove into a roadside water buffalo).

My guide's reliability and unstinting commitment to showing me the best of their country really helped make the trip. Time with them all was a pleasure, but I enjoyed Moe's company the most. Warm, smart and honest, he took me off the beaten track to local places where I got much more insight into Yangon's ways of life. 

I wish Moe all the best of luck. He's a great guy who I count as a friend. On my last day he and his super cute kids came to wave me off at Yangon Airport, above.