Nepalling.

Kathmandu... 

Capital of Nepal, Gateway to the Himalayas and a closed world until the mid-70s.

The name has always conjured-up images of temples and mountains, yogis and spirituality. It's somewhere I've always wanted to see.

But after a couple of days here, I've found it to be possibly the most horrible and certainly the most disappointing place I've ever visited. The city promises so much, delivers so little and every second within it is sensory GBH.

Sprawling and ugly, noisy and traffic-choked, it's pure chaos - with over-crowded streets, debris everywhere, and chickens, ducks, goats and the occasional holy (or, more often, just plain bemused) cow mooching around. Unfortunately, it's also very hot and there's a drought on, with dust everywhere. Right now, the city's rivers are streams of virtually pure sewage with rubbish piled-up either side.

Getting around is also an unpleasant and nerve-wrecking experience. Drivers honk their horns noisily at anything and everything, and play 'chicken', having a terrifying propensity to overtake into on-coming traffic. Speeding motorbikes and potholes the size of craters everywhere only add to the bedlam (the roads are the worst I've seen). It's best to close your eyes. I'm not a religious man but travelling around here could drive me to prayer. 

I'd like to say the people compensate for the place, but they haven't so far. I find them hard, rude and money-grabbing. They are very poor, but I've travelled in similar parts of the world where the people are much less mercenary. On the streets, in shops and in restaurants, one is either relentlessly badgered - as they try selling you crap you'd never buy - or ignored. Somewhere between the two is customer service!

I'm sure there was once a wonderful city here but it has been obliterated by rampant and unchecked development and population growth. UNESCO cites the remaining monuments and historical parts of the city as being of international cultural importance, however, they're decrepit and you can't enjoy them for the motorbikes and 'horny' drivers.

Getting the picture?

I know Bhutan and Myanmar were both spoiling. I've tried hard and tried to be objective, but can find nothing whatsoever to like about this place. 

(Thankfully, my hotel - Dwarika's - is a haven of tranquility away from the dirt, noise and hassle of the city. If you find yourself in Kathmandu for a day or two, I'd highly recommend a stay here. It almost makes worthwhile some time in the city).