My oh Myanmar.

Myanmar is probably one of the world's most estranged countries. It's not quite a Sudan or North Korea but is certainly regarded suspiciously by much of the world. I thought long and hard about whether to visit.

There are two schools of thought: one is to boycott tourism, to avoid supporting the extremely unsavoury governing regime. The other is that by visiting, local people get a chance to talk about their lives and better understand the 'outside world', and for visitors to bring in (much needed) tourist dollars - obviously by avoiding government-run hotels, businesses etc.

Personally, I have never been made to feel so welcome in a country. In many places people thanked me for visiting (last year's Cyclone Nargis and the global economic situation have badly hit tourism and this is really hurting local economies).

Part of the issue is that sanctions by The West aren't working as Asia is marching to a different tune. China, India, Singapore and Japan remain important trading partners. The views of people I spoke to were that sanctions would only work if all countries imposed them.

But what this means for the visitor - or 'guest' as the local people call you - is a country extraordinarily devoid of Western influence or brands. No McD's, Disney or celeb-obsessed culture here. This is truly a different world, where men wear a skirt-like cloth (longyi) and women a tan-coloured make-up/sunscreen made from tree bark (thanakha), and life day-to-day is lived very closely to Buddhist values.

The sights are pretty special too. The temples of Bagan, for example, are perhaps the most beautiful and spectacular monuments I've ever seen, in unimaginable numbers. I had this amazing place pretty much to myself.

After a fortnight there, I am in no doubt that I made the right decision to visit this country and have been massively rewarded for doing so. Myanmar is a land like no other, with people like no other: smiling, warm and generous, despite circumstances. 

Unfortunately, it's also a country on its knees and, seemingly, going backwards.

Most people are desperately poor and the majority of the population leads a way of life that the rest of the world put behind it decades - if not centuries - ago. This makes for amazing photo-opportunities, particularly in the countryside, but there is little bucolic charm here. Life is incredibly tough for most.

It's also remains a country very cut-off. Western mobiles don't work, landline calls are prohibitively expensive and any websites regarded as subversive by the regime are blocked, including email and blogging ones. I'm told there are government spies everywhere, and road points ensure foreign guest don't stray too far off the beaten path (large tracts of the country cannot be visited by foreigners).

Overall, Myanmar is possibly the most fascinating, rewarding and, certainly, humbling country I've ever visited, with the kindest, most genuine and honest people. People who really deserve better.