Saturday, 28 March 2009
Some pictures.
My oh Myanmar.
Myanmar is probably one of the world's most estranged countries. It's not quite a Sudan or North Korea but is certainly regarded suspiciously by much of the world. I thought long and hard about whether to visit.
There are two schools of thought: one is to boycott tourism, to avoid supporting the extremely unsavoury governing regime. The other is that by visiting, local people get a chance to talk about their lives and better understand the 'outside world', and for visitors to bring in (much needed) tourist dollars - obviously by avoiding government-run hotels, businesses etc.
Personally, I have never been made to feel so welcome in a country. In many places people thanked me for visiting (last year's Cyclone Nargis and the global economic situation have badly hit tourism and this is really hurting local economies).
Part of the issue is that sanctions by The West aren't working as Asia is marching to a different tune. China, India, Singapore and Japan remain important trading partners. The views of people I spoke to were that sanctions would only work if all countries imposed them.
But what this means for the visitor - or 'guest' as the local people call you - is a country extraordinarily devoid of Western influence or brands. No McD's, Disney or celeb-obsessed culture here. This is truly a different world, where men wear a skirt-like cloth (longyi) and women a tan-coloured make-up/sunscreen made from tree bark (thanakha), and life day-to-day is lived very closely to Buddhist values.
The sights are pretty special too. The temples of Bagan, for example, are perhaps the most beautiful and spectacular monuments I've ever seen, in unimaginable numbers. I had this amazing place pretty much to myself.
After a fortnight there, I am in no doubt that I made the right decision to visit this country and have been massively rewarded for doing so. Myanmar is a land like no other, with people like no other: smiling, warm and generous, despite circumstances.
Unfortunately, it's also a country on its knees and, seemingly, going backwards.
Most people are desperately poor and the majority of the population leads a way of life that the rest of the world put behind it decades - if not centuries - ago. This makes for amazing photo-opportunities, particularly in the countryside, but there is little bucolic charm here. Life is incredibly tough for most.
It's also remains a country very cut-off. Western mobiles don't work, landline calls are prohibitively expensive and any websites regarded as subversive by the regime are blocked, including email and blogging ones. I'm told there are government spies everywhere, and road points ensure foreign guest don't stray too far off the beaten path (large tracts of the country cannot be visited by foreigners).
Overall, Myanmar is possibly the most fascinating, rewarding and, certainly, humbling country I've ever visited, with the kindest, most genuine and honest people. People who really deserve better.
Sunday, 15 March 2009
Some day all airports will be like this.
Built on a colossal, man-made island, HK airport really is something else.
Getting there and away is easy, and although vast and busy, it really works as a super efficient transport hub for the region.
This morning, the misty views out over the water to the mountains, through the massive arched windows, were pretty special too.
Hong Kong, briefly.
Arrived into a beautiful, clear-skied afternoon in Hong Kong after an excellent flight.
I remember last time being hugely impressed by the massive, super-efficient Chep Lap Kok Airport and the infrastructure here - and today was the same. Within 15 minutes of landing I was on the high speed train into the city, travelling over the islands, past the skyscrapers and industry of the Special Economic Zone that is this part of China.
And the same thought went through my mind again: this is the future, and the West needs to wake-up. (Every Euro-sceptic should see this place to understand both the drive and hunger for progress that exists here, and why Europe needs to collaborate as a group of nations, to have any chance at all).
I've always enjoyed HK. 'A dream of Manhattan, arising from the South China Sea.' is how it's aptly been described. Certainly for me - with it's mix of colonial heritage and super-dense towers - it feels like a vision of the future, yesterday.
Today it was wonderful to see my dear friend, Philly, who lives here. I look forward to our spending more time together when I return to Honkers later on this trip.
I have an early flight to Bangkok in the morning, and then one to Yangon (Rangoon) later in the day. I'm shattered. Time for bed.
Saturday, 14 March 2009
"Once more unto the breach, dear friends, once more..."
Can't quite believe that I step onto another plane tonight for my fourth continent in three months, and the final leg of this adventure.
The next trip is as follows:
London - Hong Kong - Bangkok - Yangon - Bangkok - Kathmandu - Paro - Kathmandu - Hong Kong - Manila - Hong Kong - London.
And then it's back to reality. Gulp.
Friday, 13 March 2009
A sigh of relief.
I've had a rather difficult and tense relationship this week with the consulate of an embassy I'll shortly be visiting. (Said country will remain nameless until I've visited, so as not to tempt fate).
In London it usually takes three days to arrange a visa for this country. With a delayed flight back from Brazil, by the time I got to the embassy Monday, it was closed. Tuesday: I got there and a sign read: 'National Holiday - Embassy closed.' (When I rang eight weeks ago, I was assured there were no holidays this week). Wednesday: the embassy was open, accepted my application and said I could collect my papers Friday afternoon.
When I returned this afternoon, another sign outside read: 'Today - Embassy closed.' My heart missed a beat.
I am due to fly tomorrow night, Saturday, and knew they would not be open during the day. And they had my passport.
Thinking of a Plan B, I called the agency who've handled the land-only itinerary to get them to look into a last minute one-way flight Monday night (unfortunately, this is not an easy country to reach...)
I decided to chance it and return at three p.m. Thankfully, the embassy had reopened, I was able to collect my passport and visa, and I can now fly tomorrow, per Plan A.
Relieved does not begin to describe how I feel.
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