Paradise, found.

I have found paradise. 

From deep blue tropical waters, great shards of dark limestone rise sheer to one or two thousand feet - jagged, cave-riddled and cloaked in vivid green jungle of trees, vines, orchids, mosses and other strange, endemic plants that I’ve seen nowhere else. Clouds clip the tallest peaks. 

The islands are home to soaring swiflets (their nests give the area its name, El Nido), monkeys, hermit crabs, lizards, birds and butterflies. In the warm, clear waters are hundreds of species of fish and corals, turtles, whale sharks, dolphins and dugongs. 

As seascapes around the world go, it doesn't get any better than the stunning Bacuit Archipelago. Three hours from Manila, it's remote, spectacular and unspoilt, and reached by a bumpy small plane and a boat ride. 

Only two of the forty-five islands are inhabited and the entire area is a protected marine reserve. The snorkeling - over coral gardens, tall sponges and the iridescent blue mouths of giant clams - is superb. On the first day a six-foot green sea turtle swam past our boat, or bangka. 

There are other places similar to this – like Vietnam’s Ha Long Bay and Thailand’s Krabi and Phi Phi islands – but dare I say it, this place is more beautiful, if only because it is pristine and little-visited. And what El Nido also has (and those places lack) are stunning beaches: empty arcs of palm-lined, coral sands backed by jungle, and secret, rock-cloaked coves and turquoise lagoons where the only sounds are the paddle of your kayak and bird calls.

 

If paradise has a downside it's that it poured with rain, torrentially and non-stop for the first 24 hours. Cats and dogs. However, after it cleared, the staggering beauty of the place revealed itself and took me aback.

Ipanema to Leblon this evening.

Back at the beach.

Return to Ipanema.

OK, I've tried to put up with the all-night street noise, the scratchy nylon sheets and the constant slight fear of being a crime statistic (the recent armed raid on a hostel that made the news - in which residents were intimidated with grenades, tied-up and had their belongs stolen - happened around the corner); but waking-up to a cockroach the size of a rodent waving at me from the bedside cabinet was the last straw.

I've got out of the Copacabana apartment - at least for the few days of Carnival - and am now renting a great little place one block back from the beach in Ipanema. It's perfect. It came my way through someone I met here, and I plan to rent it again in the future. 

What was I saying about meeting great people here?

Ipanema, 7pm this evening.

Returned to a clearer, cooler and less humid Rio than we left behind last week. 

Perfect.

It's great to be back.